Saturday, November 22, 2008

My European Trip 19 - Montparnasse Cemetery



"Montparnasse" ---- the name is said to be derived from the ancient Greek "Mount Parnassus", the home of Apollo, the god of poetry, music and beauty. ---- has been a Mecca for Parisian artists and intellectuals. And Montparnasse cemetery, is the final resting place of many those celebrated intellectuals.

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It was Sunday morning. I came to the entrance of the cemetery, without knowing much backdrop. There is no omen signaling a trip any different from cemetery tours in New Orleans. When opening the cemetery guide map however, I surprisingly found many readable names. Some of the notable burials here include: Charles Baudelaire(French poet), Camille Saint-Saens (French composer), Samuel Beckett (Irish writer), Marguerite Duras (French writer and film director), Heinrich Heine (German poet), Jean-Paul Sartre (French philosopher and novelist) and Simone de Beauvoir (French philosopher).

Many years ago I bumped into the book in a tiny bookstore, the Flowers of Evil (恶之花) by Charles Baudelaire, the beginning of the name Baudelaire came to my mind. When studying in Chicago, I was further influenced by my roommate Xin, who majors in French literature and one of her favorite poets is Baudelaire. I still remember the postcard on her bookshelf, a handsome young man with mysteriously penetrating eyes, who is Baudelaire.

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As for Heinrich Heine, I just visited the world's unique Heinrich Heine Institute in his hometown Dusseldorf, two weeks before visiting Montparnasse cemetery. The memory was still fresh, for his talented works and those lyric poetry set into music by Schumann, Mendelssohn, and Brahms. Now I saw his grave, the forever peace place he would rest.


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"It was the men I deceived the most that I loved the most." -- Marguerite Duras
Many people got to know Duras from the movie "The Lover". It was adapted from her semi-autobiographical novel L'Amant. At the time as I was watching this movie, I was too naive to understant those feelings. But I still clearly remembered the ending. In time, she is not sure that she didn’t love him, when she hears a waltz by Chopin on the ship as she crosses the Indian Ocean. It is only then that we see any real emotion – real sobbing, real tears. He will call her years later when he is in Paris and she is a famous writer. Duras writes, His voice trembling, he tells her that it is as before. That he never stopped loving her. Would never stop. That it would be that way until his death.

"In love there are no vacations … No such thing. Love has to be lived fully with its boredom and all that." -- Marguerite Douras

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(Marguerite Duras, 1914 -1996)


Jean-Paul Sartre (1905-1980) and Simone de Beauvoir (1908-1986), two of the most influential and controversial writers and thinkers of the 20th centruy. You may hear about that Sartre declined the Nobel Prize in Literature. You may read the famous book, The Second Sex by Beauvoir. You may even know that this "couple" shared independent life, who met in cafés, where they wrote their books and saw their friends at separate tables, and were free to enjoy other relationships, but who maintained a kind of soul marriage.

But have you heard about anecdotes that they were ever acting out a version of "Dangerous Liaisons”? Was Simone really happy for such a unique relationship with Sartre? In her final words on Sartre's death (and her own, in Adieux), Simone wrote:

"My death will not bring us together again. This is how things are. It is in itself splendid that we were able to live our lives in harmony for so long."

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(Notes on their joint tomb. The bottom one wrote, "Merci Simone!")


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"One is not born, but rather becomes, a woman." - Simone de Beauvoir
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Tuesday, November 11, 2008

My European Trip 18 -- Idyllic Life


我住在卢瓦河谷的一座农庄里,仿佛是在Tuscany。 房间的陈设,--雕花的书桌,五斗橱,壁炉, 一切都是老式的,却带着说不出的亲切。推开窗户,花园中淡雅的香气扑面而来。单这味道,就带给人一天的好心情。

我坐在窗前写信,满怀感恩。

-- 题记

My dear friend,


Life is idyllic.

I wish you could be here, taking in this cool fresh air filled with bird notes and scents of flowers. I wish you could be here, enjoying a relaxed happiness with me. Here, with me...

After a long day's trip, I came back to the lodging, jaded and longing for a comfortable bed. Well, I found more than a superb bed. But a Tuscany guesthouse! The lodging was renovated from an old simple chateau. The interior decoration was old-fashioned but amiable: carved cabinet, flowering wallpapers, neat white curtains and cozy bathroom. I am sure you would love here as well, wouldn't you?

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I got up as early as birds today, strolling in the garden. The whole lodging quietly reveled in the dawn. Unspeakable aroma filled the air. The smell alone brought me mounting happiness. Every breath cheered up to each nerve ending.

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(The courtyard)

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(A dialogue with absent lovers)


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(More often I was represented only by my shadow. If you were here, this photo would rather clearly display my smile. You know it, that my smiles are so shining that they could even melt ice. )


Now I was sitting in front of the window and writing to you. My mind was teeming with gratitude. How blessed I am to have known you as my dear friend all these years! Particularly, how grateful I am to have you in mind at this very moment to share joy and peace. My meditation teacher ever said that goodwills vibrate through the air and will eventually arrive at whoever you devote feelings to. Have you conceived my feelings at this moment?

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(I was writing letters on this table)


You know, my friend, you'd better not spending too much time in tours in the Loire Valley. It's a good base, but it's the countryside that counts. Not far from my lodging were French villages and flower fields. Here and there, you could see beautiful beautiful sunflowers. I dived into the sunflower field, holding my camera like a dancing monkey. The whole world shrank to these golden yellow colors in front of me. Van Gogh, -- I cannot help thinking of him once again as I did so many times in my trip.


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An integral component of my idyllic life in the Loire Valley is genuine French food. So much here, on and around the plates, speaks of the place and its traditions. I would love to recommend a restaurant, La Licorne, which claims "la table est un art desert". A handsome waiter patiently explained to me the French menu for about twenty minutes last night. And the resulting dish was .... You cannot imagine my expressions, completely satisfied with each bite. Well, you see, this was my dessert. Beautiful, isn't it?


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Do you now feel a little bit pity for not traveling with me? Never mind! I have stored the sunshine of the Loire Valley in my heart; I have sealed the aroma of the garden in my memory. And I am now writing all the happiness on the paper to share with you, my dear friend!

Be Happy!

With Mettā

J.



Photographed by Jennie Bai.

Copyright ©Jennie Bai. All Rights Reserved.



My European Trip 17 - Villandry


Villandry was completed toward 1536 and was the last of the large chateaux built in the Loire Valley during the Renaissance. Villandry is best known as France's archetypal potager, a kitchen garden, together with its ornamental garden, water garden, and herb garden.

To understand and appreciate these gardens, you have to know their history and the symbolism behind their design. Villandry was built by Jean le Breton, one of King François I's finance ministers. Le Breton had been ambassador to Italy, where he devoted his spare time to study the Italian Renaissance art of gardening. Anyone who has been to Florence will instantly recognize this influence in the grounds of Villandry.

Most noteworthy are the ornamental gardens, for its colors and motifs symbolizing tender love, tragic love, fickle love, and mad love. Behind the herb garden is a maze, which I didn't visit. I don't think you can enter it anyway, because you might never find your way out of this Garden of Love!



My European Trip 16 - Azay Le Rideau


Imagine a medieval stronghold built at the far end of an island in the middle of River Indre, protecting the passage from Tours to Chinon for centuries. Built by Gilles Berthelot, a rich financier and member of the Touraine bourgeoisie, the Chateau of Azay le Rideau inaugurated the era of leisure residences that combined the charm of a French-style château with the majesty of an Italian Renaissance palace.

The interior of the chateau is richly furnished and decorated with portraits and historical paintings, for example, the portrait of the Sun King Louis XIV. I saw many of his portraits in Versailles, but the one in Azay le Rideau is unique. It's the Sung King WITHOUT wigs! He was still young and handsome in the painting at an age of less than 30.

Wigs became fashionable, increasing in popularity during the reign of Louis XIV. The king not only wore them to hide his baldness but also to make himself seem taller by means of towering hair. It immediately became a fashion throughout the French royal court. Most portraits you saw today are Louis XIV wearing wigs since he was getting bald around 30. If you want to see a different king, come to Azay le Rideau.

The facade of the chateau is gently reflected in the calm river. It was a beautiful impressionism painting, as you will see in the following slides.




Next Stop: Villandry

Sunday, November 2, 2008

My European Trip 15 - Chinon



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(River Vienne, view from the Chinon tower)

Chinon is a historical little town on the banks of the river Vienne, 45 kilometers south of the heart of Touraine, which is called the "Garden of France" and the "Cradle of the French Language". It became the residence of Charles VII, the heir of the throne of France in the early 1400's, and was where the legendary Joan of Arc came to recognize him and raise an army to liberate the country from the English domination.


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(A long stairway from the Parking lot to the tower, with residents houses distributed on both sides. )


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Old Clock in the Chinon tower. It still works today, making solid sound every sharp hour to 10,000 residents.

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A Beetle wecker in the 1960's.

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Birds' view of Chinon

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Next stop: Azay-le-Rideau

My European Trip 14 -- Loire Valley


慕名前往法国城堡之乡卢瓦河谷,使我惊叹留恋的不是那一座座风格迥异的城堡,而是念兹在兹的田园生活,如诗如画, ---- 还有那个清晨在窗前写信时满怀感恩的心情。 -- 题记


A couple of hours south of Paris, the Loire Valley is a cultural landscape of great beauty, containing historic towns and villages, and great architectural monuments. There I lived an idyllic life, visited footprints of the Hundred Years' War, and read anecdotes of the French royal family from one château to another.

During the eventful Hundred Years' War, the Loire valley was the trusted refuge of the French side. Charles VII, the dauphin, moved his fragile power and the royal administration to the Loire, traveling endlessly. Thus, from one chateau to another, I came across him. For example, Chinon was ever announced by Charles VII as the capital in the heart of the martyred kingdom. This is also the place where the story of Joan of Art (圣女贞德) happened.

The architectural monuments see the transition from defensive castles to renaissance châteaux, places of luxury, pleasure and refinement. The word "château" is hard to translate: "castle" is too warlike, "palace" too regal. Besides, they are so different from Versailles and Fontainebleau.

My travel route is Chinon -- Azay-le-Rideau -- Villandry -- (Blere) -- Chenonceaux -- Amboise -- Blois -- Chambord. In the following articles, I invite you to come with me to the Loire valley, and enjoy a harmonious blend of natural and man-made beauty.

The Château of Azay-le-Rideau

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The Château of Villandry

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The Château of Foutevraud

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The Château of Chenonceaux

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The Château of Chambord

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The last, but not the least, I strongly recommend you to spend several nights in the Loire valley and savor the local food. For a long time this area is famous for wine and delicacies.

Bon voyage and bon appetit!

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Next Stop: Chinon

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