Showing posts with label Swiss. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Swiss. Show all posts

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Encounter with Hermann Hesse in Lugano







Knowing Hermann ever living near Lugano makes the EFA trip a total meaningfulness. I didn't know this until randomly skimming over Lugano brochure while waiting for hotel check-in. Hermann spent most of his time and died in Montagnola, Ticino. It's there he wrote those books winning him the Nobel Prize but more exerting a long-run influence to numerous people including me.

In order to make the visit to Museo Hermann Hesse, I skipped conference lunch and one session. With a pilgrim's heart, I arrived in the quiet village in Montagnola, which Hermann ever described as:

"Here the sun shines more intensely, the mountains are rosier: wine, almonds, figs and chestnuts grow and the people are good, civilized, and friendly..."

The museum is a small two-storey brick building, next to the villa Hermann ever lived. The second floor hosts his manuscripts, scratches, postcards, letters, as well the chair and table he ever used. I cannot help put my hands touching the table, as if it could help me connecting to the scene when he wrote Siddhartha (1922). Contemplating the typewriter, I wonder what Hermann ever experienced in his own spiritual exploration.




(Hermann's typewriter, Smith Premier No. 4)



"When you throw a rock into the water, it will speed on the fastest course to the bottom of the water. This is how it is when Siddhartha has a goal, a resolution. Siddhartha does nothing, he waits, he thinks, he fasts, but he passes through the things of the world like a rock through water, without doing anything, without stirring; he is drawn, he lets himself fall. "   
                                       --- Siddhartha (1922)

The nexus of Hermann's works to my life, heart and mind, is through a channel not so common to others, the Taoism, the philosophy of Lao-tze. In his autobiography, Childhood of the Magician, Hermann recalled the mixing influence of Western and Eastern culture on his family. His grandfather and his parents all ever served in India at a Protestant Christian mission society. His father introduced him to the thought of Lao-tze in his youth. Later on he himself also traveled to India, and other Asian countries in his thirties. 

这幢屋子里交错着许多世界的光芒。人们在这屋里祈祷和读《圣经》,研究和学习印度哲学,还演奏许多优美的音乐。这里有知道佛陀和老子的人,有来自许多不同国度的客人……这样美的家庭是我喜欢的,但是我希望的世界更美,我的梦想也更多。现实是从来不充足的,魔术是必要的。
                              ---《魔术师的童年》 赫尔曼·黑塞
Rays of light from many worlds intersected in this house. Here people prayed and read the Bible, here they studied and practiced Hindu philology, here much good music was played, here there was knowledge of Buddha and Lao-tse, guests came from many countries... It was beautiful and it pleased me, but more beautiful still was the world of my wishful thinking, richer still the play of my waking dreams. Reality was never enough, there was need of magic.
       --- Childhood of the Magician, by Hermann Hesse

The Eastern journey made a strong impression on Hermann's literary work. As he said, "Wisdom cannot be learned. That is an experience that I had to try to represent by poetical means. The result of that attempt is Siddhartha." "I am not Siddhartha, I am only always and again on my way to him ..."

The way Siddhartha achieving enlightening for me, is consistent with the Way of Lao-tze, summarized in the book of Tao Te Jing: that is No Action (无为). Be aware of whatever happening and fully accept it as it is.

From that hour Siddhartha ceased to fight against his destiny. There shone in his face the serenity of knowledge, of one who is no longer confronted with conflict of desires, who has found salvation, who is in harmony with the stream of events, with the stream of life, full of sympathy and compassion, surrendering himself to the stream, belonging to the unity of all things.       
                                                           -- Siddhartha (p.94)
For all these years, I increasingly find the Taoism to have the power to comfort me and to guide me! It was so resonating when seeing Hermann's words (in translation) exhibited in the museum that "I go to that corner of my library where the Chinese are -- a beautiful, a peaceful, a happy corner! In these ancient books there are such good and often such astonishingly pertinent things. Here, during the terrible war years, I often found thoughts to comfort me and put me back on my feet!" 



I didn't remember how I got back from the Montagnola village to the conference site, back to the secular world. The unexpected 'encounter' with Hermann Hesse transformed me into a spiritual excursion. That night, when we were cruising on Lake Lugano with hundreds of conference participants, my mind only echoed Hermann's words (see note) in a documentary film I watched as a solo audience in the museum that afternoon:

Let yourself fall
  Do not fight back
Die gladly
 Live gladly




(scenery from the boat while cruising at Lake Lugano)



Photographed by Jennie Bai.
Copyright ©Jennie Bai. All Rights Reserved.




Note:
"There was not a thing in the world that was not just as beautiful, just as desirable, just as joyous as it’s opposite. It was blissful to live, it was blissful to die, as soon as you hung suspended in space. Peace from without did not exist; there was no peace in the graveyard, no peace in God. No magic ever interrupted the eternal chain of births, the endless succession of God’s breaths. But there was another kind of peace, to be found within your own self. It’s name was: Let yourself fall! Do not fight back! Die gladly! Live Gladly!"
~  Klingsor’s Last Summer by Hermann Hesse  

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Silhouette along the Rhine River in Basel


You could have missed Basel if not walking along the Rhine River... Any great city has its soul if it also has a river accompanying her. Paris is not Paris without Seine, neither London without Thames, nor NewYork without Hudson. The river defines the characteristics of the city; its people in turn redefine the river.





There is nothing more relaxing after an intellectual meeting than a carefree walk. Andrew, Itay, Wei, and I have the next-day flight, back to routine and busy world. The few hours break thus becomes so precious before a new journey. Under Anastasia's guide, we rambled through the old town and came to the Münsterplatz.





Walking down along the staircase, we took a ferry across the Rhine river. In this way we are getting closer to feel the river, its current gently up and down and soon bringing us to the other bank.



(the sculler) 

Basel is live in the summer with a special event called "The Rhine Swim". Only those that have ventured into the Rhine can truly understand the soul of the city.  Drifting on the current, and let your cares floating away with the water. 



(sparse people floating in the Rhine)







In the riverbank, there are culture exhibitions worth a stop even for the local people.




And more people choose to sit in the stairs of the riverbank, composing a live movie which has brought so much pleasure for an observer like me. What else could be more interesting to watch the lives of other people? Indeed, this is one of the strong motivations keeping me traveling all these years. I am full of curiosity for the external world. We are borne to see the world, to listen to the world, to touch the world, and to taste and feel the world, aren't we?
























River seems for me to be a forever theme.  It is the Way in Lao-tze's Tao Te Jing , which I admire and aim to achieve throughout my life. 

上善若水。 
The highest goodness resembles water.
水善利萬物而不爭,處衆人之所惡,故幾於道。居善地,心善淵,與善仁,言善信,正善治,事善能,動善時。 
Water greatly benefits myriad things without contention. It stays in places that people dislike.Therefore it is similar to the Way (Tao), dwelling with the right location, feeling with great depth, giving with great kindness, speaking with great integrity, governing with great administration, handling with great capability, and moving with great timing.
夫唯不爭,故無尤。 
Because it does not contend, it is therefore beyond reproach.








Photographed by Jennie Bai
Copyright ©Jennie Bai. All Rights Reserved.